NOLA in December
I’ve always wanted to visit New Orleans—the gothic architecture, historic above-ground cemeteries, jazz on every corner, beignets and more were exciting to daydream about.
On a whim in November, I decided to make it happen. In just a few weeks, I would be exploring a new city, learning to make gumbo, walking along Bourbon Street, touring St. Louis Cemetery and soaking up a new experience.
Initially, I was planning on NOLA being my first solo trip—I’ve been inspired by the Women Who Travel podcast by Condé Nast Traveler. It’s motivating to hear about the adventures these women are going on and the growth they experience along their journeys. While NOLA didn’t end up being my solo trip, it’s something I plan on doing at some point in 2024. There’s a part of my confidence I am eager to grow as I venture further into my 30s.
But that’s for another day, another story… back to NOLA.
TK and I ventured to NOLA—while he worked remotely by day, I wandered the French Quarter and took a cooking class. By night, we took to Bourbon Street, following a tour guide sharing the dark tales of ghosts and vampires (I highly recommend this one—it was wild, terrifying and heartwrenching).
We also found our way to Café du Monde for the classic beignets allowing ourselves to accept the bath of powdered sugar all over our hands; gave alligator a try for the first time in years (not a fan, personally); paid a visit to Faulkner’s House (turned bookstore); bobbed our heads to jazz in a tiny bar somewhere in the Quarter; and dined at the Jewel of the South (known for its’ incredible cocktails and unique dishes…I had squash prepared in 3 different ways!).
In just a few days, we were moved by the lives and the cultures of this historic city—from Creole to Cajun, African to French, Spanish, German, Irish and more.
The French Quarter ‘23
A Few of My Favorite NOLA People. Places. Things.
Hotel Peter & Paul
If possible, plan to stay at Hotel Peter & Paul—located just outside the French Quarter. It’s a historic church, schoolhouse, rectory, convent turned hotel, bar/restaurant/café, and boutique shop. It’s one of Ash Hotels amazing projects—the decor, ambience, and energy was something out of history books or a Wes Anderson film.
I wandered the halls and discovered old paintings, little floral accents in the light fixtures, vintage furniture and touches of the past that was once part of the space.
Eating & Cooking
From the Elysian Bar & Restaurant at the hotel to the Jewel of the South and the New Orleans School of Cooking, we had plenty of delicious Creole, Cajun, and Southern dishes. While we loved the more modern Southern dining, some of the best fried dishes were sprinkled throughout the French Quarter where the air filled with steam from a freshly cooked crab leg and fried shrimp. Let’s just say, we didn’t have a bad meal.
Oh, and if I have one major recommendation, that’s to take a cooking class on your travels. I did this for the first time in NOLA at the New Orleans School of Cooking and learned to make gumbo, fish with rice & pecans and bananas foster. It’s a great way to learn about the food and culture in the region you’re visiting, and get to know new people who are from the area or traveling, too. This is definitely one thing I want to continue doing as I go on my next adventures.
Walking & History
Walking was a large part of our itinerary—TK and I do this on all of our trips to get a lay of the land and see parts of a place we wouldn’t otherwise experience from a car or public transit. We walked to blend into the city, admire the architecture, stumble into alleyways, take in the notes of jazz in the air, breathe in the scent of fried seafood, and get to know the culture and history between the cracks and crevices.
Jazz Art in the French Quarter
Jackson Square Park
The Spring Statue in Jackson Square Park. Each corner features a marble statue representing one of the four seasons.
A walk in NOLA ‘23
NOLA has a deeply beautiful, complicated and haunting history. It’s always been on my list of places to visit—in large part due to The Originals (a Vampire Diaries spin-off show I watched during my college years). But, upon arrival, NOLA became more than a place I recognized from a fiction. It became a reality.
NOLA left its mark on me through gastronomy, folklore, the dead and the living, and the historical moments that have brought the city to where it is today.
It’s a city with soul that has seen and been through a lot.
Thank you for letting me get to know you, NOLA.
S.